Today is Day 40 of our #coronavirus lockdown here in Sicily and I’ve been day-dreaming about one of the most relaxing weekend getaways we took here in Sicily. So let me take you on another virtual journey to another favorite place of mine.
LET’S STEP THROUGH THE DOORS OF PRINCIPE
While we were preparing for our move to Sicily in 2017, I went down the wormhole of Pinterest and researched places in Sicily. That is when I came across images of Principe and I knew we had to visit once we made it across the Atlantic.
Fast forward a year, my birthday was coming up in early October so it seemed like the perfect excuse to go on a relaxing long weekend. I couldn’t imagine a more beautiful place to spend my birthday than Principe di Salina, so we booked our ferry tickets and two nights at Principe.
Principe di Salina is an absolutely beautiful family owned boutique hotel located on the island of Salina. With only 12 rooms, it is a home away from home, and you feel its tranquility the moment you arrive.
THE STORY OF PRINCIPE
Principe was born out of love for Salina.
Upon arrival, we were greeted by Anita and her parents Silvana & Francesco who own and run Principe. Right away we could feel that they radiate kindness and have an enormous passion for Salina. Their story with Salina goes back decades. Originally from Milan, Silvana & Francesco spent every summer in Salina while their children grew up and finally decided to buy a home here. After retiring from their jobs and with their daughter Anita at the helm, the family decided to open Principe and share the magic of Salina and their love for the island with their guests.
Salina is part of a string of volcanic islands off the coast of Northern Sicily, called the Aeolian Islands.
AEOLIAN ISLANDS
The Aeolian Islands consist of seven tiny islands that are the result of 260,000 years of volcanic activity. The islands are Lipari, Vulcano, Salina, Stromboli, Filicudi, Alicudi, Panarea. Two of these islands - Vulcano and Stromboli - have active volcanos. The islands were added the the UNESCO World Heritage Site for providing “an outstanding record of volcanic island-building and destruction, and ongoing volcanic phenomena.”
The islands are very special, even to Sicilians. They can only be accessed via boat or passenger ferry and are very much protected by the community & authorities. Urban development is restricted, and only the restoration of existing buildings is allowed.
The building of Principe was restored in the beautiful whitewashed style traditional to buildings on the Aeolian islands. The white is in beautiful contrast against the blue of the sky & the sea and the green of the volcanic hills.
The other thing I ABSOLUTELY LOVE about Principe is that they focus on protecting their island. They have a NO SINGLE USE PLASTIC policy, so all of their utensils, cups, straws, shampoo bottles are re-usable/made of no-plastic materials like bamboo. They also have a fruit & vegetable garden that supplies some of the fresh produce they serve at the meals.
THE EXPERIENCE
Principe is beautifully laid out and you can feel the personal touch & care the family put into building it. There are only 12 rooms, so the experience is very personal & familial. Each room has its own balcony overlooking the sea and feel very private.
There are beautiful pockets of common spaces scattered around the hotel, each designed with the view in mind. We loved sitting on the different patios overlooking the sea. Swinging in the hammock or the macrame chairs hanging from the whitewashed beams. The pool in the middle courtyard is the perfect way to cool down in the midday heat and get a sun-kissed tan.
We visited on the first week of October, and were fortunate to have beautiful weather, so we spent most of the day relaxing by the pool, sipping on Aperol Spritz and smoking hookah.
We normally try to pack our travels with activities, but this weekend was all about relaxing and recharging. And the pace of life on the Aeolian islands is just perfect for that.
When you’d think that a sun-filled afternoon couldn’t get any better, then sunset arrives to Salina. It’s a mix of soft pastels reflecting back on the pool, and in the distance you can see the island of Panarea gently floating on the sea. I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday view.
WHERE TO EAT?
Principe has delicious and locally sourced food. Breakfast was included in our room rate and had a lovely selection of fresh juices and fruits, eggs made to order, pastries, jams, cheeses, etc.
Lunch is optional and since we spent our full day by the pool, we ordered lunch at Principe and it did not disappoint. We loved one of their dishes so much that I actually re-created the recipe at home and we eat it often. It’s a tuna salad with black rice, capers, olives, red onions and olive oil.
For dinner we ventured out one evening and had dinner at La Pinnata del Monsú. It’s a nice restaurant with outdoor seating and it’s only a 10min walk from the hotel. The second night, we opted for Principe’s family style dinner prepared by Silvana and her team. It was a beautiful candle lit dinner with Sicilian specialties like Pasta alla Norma, fresh fish and pistachio cake.
ENJOY
Visiting the Aeolian islands can be a beautiful addition to your Sicily trip. Or if you’ve been to mainland Sicily but you want to come back, it’s also a great stand-alone trip with hopping around the different islands. Given the small size of the islands, I see them as a perfect way to have a relaxing, slow paced vacation. If you’re looking for parties, nightlife and excitement, this may not be the best choice.
If you come to stay at Principe, make sure to enjoy the hotel. Every space is charmingly designed. I loved exploring it all, sitting down and taking in the views or the small design details. The staff is welcoming and you will feel home.
If you are looking for a destination wedding, I’d highly recommend getting in touch with Anita, the owner. Principe makes a magical backdrop for ‘I do’s’, I always swoon over all their IG wedding photos.
HOW TO BOOK?
We booked our room directly through Principe’s website at https://principedisalina.it
We spent two nights at the hotel and I’d suggest booking for at least two nights because getting to Salina is a bit of a process. You have to factor in the drive to Milazzo (where the ferries depart to the Aeolian islands), the ferry ride to Salina and getting from the ferry stop in Salina to Malfa where Principe is located.
Doing it as a day-trip is doable if you leave very early but it will probably be a bit of a rush.
I loved that each room has its own private balcony. The whitewashed theme continues throughout the rooms with small accents like patterned tiles in the bathrooms and other surfaces.
HOW TO GET HERE?
Milazzo - is the city where all the ferries depart to the Aeolian islands. This is where you’ll need to drive or arrange public transport. Milazzo is about 1hr 45min drive from Catania or about 2hrs from Palermo.
Parking in Milazzo might take a bit time, so calculate with extra time so you won’t miss your ferry.
Ferry - Liberty Lines provides hydrofoil service to all Aeolian Islands from Milazzo (some service is available from Palermo or Messina as well, you can research it on their website). From Milazzo to Salina, it’s a 1hr 30min ride on the hydrofoil. You can and you should buy your tickets in advance on the website. We learned it the hard way. It was October so we assumed there will be plenty of tickets available so we showed up for the 10am ferry, finding out that it was sold out….so we had to wait another hour until we could depart with the next ferry. (Note - you can’t take your car with you to the islands, so prepare that there is no option for driving.)
Ride to the hotel - the ferry stops at Salina Santa Maria on Salina island. Principe is located in Malfa, which is a 15 min car ride from Salina SM. We arranged pickup with the hotel in advance but I think there are local bus services that you can take advantage of. I think if we returned again, we’d like to rent vespas so we can explore the island more.
WHAT TO EXPLORE?
Malfa
In the afternoon we took a stroll around and explored Malfa. It’s a tiny seaside town with only about 1000 inhabitants, most of whom leave the island during the winter months. Since we visited in October, everything was quiet and we enjoyed the slow, relaxing pace. We grabbed an espresso at Cafe Malvasia and watched the locals peacefully going about their daily chores.
We explored the little streets and found hidden gems all around - giant cacti trees, bougainvillea covered corners, and front doors painted the colors of the sea.
We also walked to a local winery called Fenech to buy a bottle of Malvasia Delle Lipari, which is a white dessert wine made from grapes grown only on the Aeolian islands.
Salina
Sadly, we didn’t have time to explore the town of Salina besides the half hour we spent waiting for our ferry back home. It looks like a charming little town and we’d love to come back. Next time we plan to rent a vespa and properly explore every part of the island, all the hidden coves, every tiny town and hike some of the island’s viewpoints.
PS: this is not a sponsored post, only our personal experience and our love of beautiful things.